Yank a motor out of the junkyard, clean it up, add a camshaft, intake, and a carburetor and see how . If you are plan to swap this L into a '60s Mustang or even a Fox Mustang, the pan and oil . , Swap Meet, Choosing the right camshaft for your Mustang can be a daunting task. GT to the next level of performance means swapping out those stock cams for . Fitment includes: , , , , , , GT Meet Our Team. Shop guiadeayuntamientos.info for this Trick Flow Stage 1 Camshaft and get more power for 2,, Operating RPM Range. How To Install / Mustang Camshaft & Timing Chain () All of which will feature different durations, lobe separations, and intake lift to meet your expectations for your build.
Your hub for horsepower Get first access to hit shows like Roadkill and Dirt Every Day Join free for 14 days now While the heads were off getting a massage, we turned our attention to the cam timing. The question was whether we wanted a torquey small-block or a more cammed-up rpm engine to boost peak horsepower.
We decided to test both ideas, so we ordered two roller cams from Lunati: It turned out we were conservative on both counts.
As a final goal, we decided to bolt on a simple nitrous system and see if we could push this little small-block Ford to make some real power. There are caveats to this plan, however. The kit offers adjustable power from 50— hp with a simple jet change. Small-block Fords and Mopars only use four head bolts per cylinder, so retaining proper head-gasket seal—especially with nitrous—is a point that demands attention, so we ordered a set of Fel-Pro MLS head gaskets rather than a standard, composition gasket.
The multiple-layer steel construction allows the gasket to conform to movement between the cylinder head and block while maintaining a good seal. They are more expensive than standard head gaskets, but they also do the job and are worth the additional money. For additional insurance, we also added a set of ARP head studs, which are stronger and offer better thread overlap than factory bolts, which helps prevent pulling threads out of a used block.
We also added a veteran Ford magnetic pickup distributor and used it to drive an MSD ignition system. We pulled this hydraulic roller-cammed 5. This is the motor with the GT40P head removed.
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The engine was in extremely good condition considering its mileage—the factory crosshatch was still evident on the cylinder walls. If you are plan to swap this 5. Late-model hydraulic roller 5. Since our original engine came with distributorless ignition, Moore swapped in an earlier distributor, which needed a custom gear compatible with the steel core.
This photo shows Mike concentrating on the bowl area of the heads, but this requires some experience.
We we set the timing to 34 degrees and rejetted the carburetor to get our desired With the tuning finalized, the little cam made far more power than we expected, cranking out lb-ft of torque at 4, and hp at 5, rpm. We probably could have coaxed an even hp out of this stock configuration, but with such good numbers, we decided to jump right into the first Lunati cam.
The hardest part of swapping the cam was just getting the timing cover off and back on again.01 Bullitt MHS 2nd Gen Stage 2 NA Cam Install
The rest went very smoothly, and we reused the stock lifters and suffered no ulcers worrying about breaking in the cam. In less than an hour, we were ready to test. Despite adding 30 degrees of intake duration, this cam improved torque throughout the entire test from 3, rpm on up. Cams are specific to each side, so if you put them in wrong there will be problems. Once you have the correct cam, remove the 10mm bolts holding the cam caps in place.
Make sure to keep the cam caps in the proper order so they go back on in the same place. With the caps removed, pull the cam out.
Be careful - the cam lobes are sharp. If you are reusing your old parts, remove the 18mm bolt from the front of the cam. Slide the cam sprocket off keep in mind which side faces forward and the cam spacer as well.
Slide the cam spacer on to the front of the new cam, followed by the cam sprocket, cam washer and cam bolt. If you have a compressor, this is when you should impact the bolts on, however they can be tightened later. Use cam lube on the bearing surfaces and lobes and place into the head.
You can use oil in the cam journals as well. With the cam in place, put the cam caps back in place and finger tighten the bolts. Using the proper sequence tighten the bolts to 70 to in-lbs. Once done, the cam should spin just as freely as it did before. If not, loosen up the caps and retighten. A common problem is over tightening these, so only torque down as specified.
Move to the other side and repeat steps 6 through The back of the follow sits on the valve and the front on the lifter. Find a cam lobe that is at the base of its circle shortest point and slide the follower under it so that the rear is over the valve, the roller is under the cam lobe and the front of it is directly in front of the lifter. Now take a large screwdriver and position the flat head of it behind the lip on top of the follower and pull backwards using the cam lobe for leverage [Figure 10].
How To Install Cams on your Mustang - DIY
It will pop the follower back into place. Do this for all followers and make sure to rotate the motor as you go so you can access each one while the base circle is facing down. Take one of the timing chains and lay it on a clean surface with it stretched out and use a grease pen to mark the two end links that are facing outwards.
Repeat this on the other chain [Figure 11]. Slide the crank gear or gears if you have a car on the crank. Put the 18mm bolt and washers back in the front of the crank.
This is your first alignment mark. Now turn the driver side cam until the alignment mark is perpendicular to the head surface the alignment mark is a circular dimple along the outer ridge [Figure 12].
Put the chain on the rear crank gear, aligning the mark on one end of the chain to the rear crank gear alignment mark and the mark on the other end of the chain to the cam alignment mark. The right side of the chain should be tight when placing the chain. You will need to use a wrench to rotate the cam slightly when aligning the marks. When you are done, you should have both of the alignment marks matched up to the marks you made with the grease pen. Do the same thing on the passenger side cam, except this time the bottom of the chain will go on the front of the crank sprocket.
Now you are ready for your chain tensioners.
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To compress them, you must push down on the hydraulic part of it and the trigger on the top right next to it. As it bleeds down, you will see the teeth unlocking. Using a small allen key, push these teeth over so that it compresses completely. When it does compress completely, you will use that same allen key to lock the tensioner in the compressed position by putting it into the small hole at the bottom of the front face of the tensioner [Figure 13].
This will keep it compressed until you have it bolted in. Do this for both tensioners. Slide the driver side curved timing chain guide [Figure 5] back into the place, then bolt in the left chain tensioner using the 2 10mm bolts and tighten to ft-lbs. Once it is in place, pull the allen key out and it will automatically put tension against the chain.